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Friday, March 28, 2014

Chicken Ragu with Kalamata Olives

Posted on 3:11 PM by john

After a few recipes that lean towards the sweeter side of things, I figured it's time to turn the tables over to something savory. And anyone who knows me knows that when it comes to savory, pasta is my main squeeze. I've been making a rendition of this Chicken Ragu I found in Food & Wine for my clients lately. They just flip for it, and so do I.


There are a few of things about this dish that I think are fantastic. First, pappardelle is way up there on my list of favorite pastas, second only to Bucatini- which I love so much that I named my cat after it, so yeah, my love affair with noodles is not to be taken lightly- and this rich, hearty sauce stands up perfectly to the thick, wide, glorious ribbons.


Second, the olives. They absolutely make this dish. Every time you get a briny bite of kalamata it's like a little explosion of flavor and you instantly get the feeling that without it the dish would be left lacking something. You definitely don't want to skimp on the olives.


Lastly, this ragu is vaguely reminiscent of something my mom used to make for us when I was younger, a recipe she got from an Italian co-worker made with dark meat chicken, sundried tomatoes, spaghetti and herbs that we affectionately referred to as "Leanne's Spaghetti," which became such a hit that it quickly earned a coveted spot in our dinner rotation. Now I don't expect anyone else to relate to this besides my family and I (and possibly Leanne, wherever she may be), but I think it's that sense of nostalgia- that incredible way that a dish can transport you back to your childhood days- that I really enjoy about this Chicken Ragu...and about food in general. And that's something I think everyone can relate to.

adapted from Food & Wine
serves 4-6

Ingredients
1 red onion, chopped
1 fennel bulb, cored and chopped
1 celery rib, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1 tbsp. olive oil
2 lbs. skinless bone-in chicken thighs, fat trimmed
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup crimini mushrooms, thinly sliced
1 tbsp. rosemary, chopped
1 tbsp. sage, chopped
1 tbsp. tomato paste
1/4 cup aged balsamic vinegar
1/2 cup sherry wine
2 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1 cup tomato sauce
1/2 cup pitted kalamata olives, halved
3/4 lb. pappardelle pasta, cooked to al dente and drained
Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, for serving

Instructions
1. In a food processor, combine the onions, fennel, celery, carrot and garlic and pulse until very finely chopped.
2. Heat the oil in a large heavy bottomed pot (preferably cast iron). Season the chicken with salt and pepper and add it to the pot. Sear on both sides over moderately high heat until golden brown, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer the chicken to a platter.
3. Add the vegetable mixture to the pot and season with salt and pepper; cook over medium-low heat until the vegetables are softened and just starting to brown, about 10 minutes. Add mushrooms, rosemary, sage and tomato paste and stir to combine. Add the vinegar and cook for a few minutes until reduced by half, then add the sherry and cook for a few more minutes until reduced by half.
4. Add the broth and tomato sauce and bring to a boil. Return the chicken to the pot. Cover partially and simmer over low heat for about 1 hour.
5. Transfer the chicken to a platter and let cool slightly, then shred the meat, discarding the bones, and stir it into the sauce along with the olives.
5. Season the ragù with salt and pepper and toss the pappardelle with the ragu. Serve with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.
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